Culinary Wars

Wilmington's own Fire on the Dock

Everyone’s a critic – especially when it comes to food. That’s what makes Jimmy Crippen’s Competition Dining Series so successful. The original competition Fire on the Rock (as in Blowing Rock, N.C.) was founded by Crippen, owner of Crippen’s Country Inn and Restaurant in 1994. It has now expanded to include chef-offs in the Triangle, the Triad and Wilmington’s own: Fire on the Dock with all ingredients hailing from N.C. 

Setting the table

The battle of the night – new kid Rx vs. venerable Marc’s on Market  – was sold out. A banquet room filled with 100-plus giddy diners was reminiscent of something between a wedding and a sporting event. Women were dressed to impress, while men were frantically pumping hand-made signs with the names of their favorite contestant. We were seated at a table with eight other diners, all professing their undying loyalty to Marc’s on Market. (Incidentally, I was pulling for underdog Rx, which was not even open yet but whose chef/owner worked under James Beard Award-winner Sean Brock at Husk in Charleston – not too shabby.) Each chef would produce three courses showcasing the secret ingredient and would be judged based on categories like presentation, aroma and overall taste.

Dishing

Admittedly, as soon as I heard about Fire on the Dock hitting town, I was sharpening my taste bud talons. As a “celebrity judge,” my expert qualifications were meager, but 10 years in Los Angeles, four nights a week I did what every other Angeleno did – made reservations. Then, I spent the evening deigning to praise or annihilate dishes [made by stellar chefs], while sipping fancy cocktails. But as judgment night approached, I realized that Wilmington is different. I know these chefs. Not from TV or the latest food blog, but as people. They know my name. Stop to chat when we pass on the street. Have been to my house. It made the celebrity judge title all the more weighty.

The Secret Ingredient

Carolina Bison: Lean, sweet and a tad gamey. The hit of the evening for me was chef Marc’s coffee and cumin rubbed flank steak, which had a lovely contrast with the pinot-honey stewed fruit on top. However, Chef James’ flank steak with green lentil and snap pea salad crowned with a soft-poached egg won me over for creativity and plating. (And bravery for attempting to serve perfectly poached eggs to that many people at once.) I would’ve liked there to be more of a progression through the courses from both sides – say, a carpaccio to begin and a dessert to close the meal. (Anyone for caramel ice cream with bison bacon crumbles?) 

As I listened to my fellow diners wax poetic about their own plates, I took some pride in what Wilmington’s food community is becoming. There’s a highly personal aspect to it. Unlike the cut-throat cuisine-scene in NY or LA, where watching a restaurant crash and burn is considered entertainment, we want our restaurants – and our chefs – to succeed. We need them to continue to push the limits for our ever-evolving palates. So chefs, in the immortal Iron Chef words: Allez Cuisine!